Monday, February 4, 2008

Mount Phousi and drizzle in Vientiane






















We went into town at about 8am on Sunday 3rd February, as we were told that the electricity in the whole of Luang Prabang is shut off on a Sunday between 8am and 5pm! Luckily we had a shower, as the water stopped at that time too. We climbed the 328 steps to the top of Mount Phousi which is in the centre of town and has a lot of Buddha statues. There is a fantastic view of the town from the top of the mountain (see photo) and the Mekong and the Nam Khan river. There are also a couple of imprints of Buddha's feet, although I am sure those imprints are a part of someone's fanciful information, as they are ginormous (see photo).

In the afternoon we took a 45 minute flight to Vientiane on a rather dodgy 20 seater propellor plane with Laos Airlines (see photo) which lurched every time we hit a bit of turbulence. In the capital city, we were met with cold and drizzle. Pronounced Wieng Chan (meaning "city or place within walls" in Lao; Chan is the Lao term of the Sanskrit "Chandana"), the city name translates to Sandalwood City. It was the presence and influence of the French who gave the city its present day spelling. Vientiane was originally one of the early Lao valley districts ocnstructed in AD 1000.

At various times over the 10 or so centuries of its history, Vientiane has lost its standing as an independent kingdom and was controlled by the Vietnamese, Burmese, Siamese and Khmers. When the kingdom of Lan Xang was founded in the 14th century by the Khmer supported by Fa Ngum, it was centred around present day Luang Prabang. By the mid-16th century, the capital had shifted to Vientiane and King Setthathirath constructed Vientianeon the curve of the Mekong River.

In the 17th century, Vientiane reached its height under King Souliya Vongsa, who ruled for 57 years, a period known as the golden years. When King Vongsa died in 1694 without a direct heir, the leadership of Lan Xang was contested and the nation was split into 3 kingdoms. In the early 18th century, Luang Prabang and Vientiane became the capitals of separate states, with Vientiane under Vietnamese patronage. By the mid 18th century, Burma had menaced Vientiane. Rather than supporting one another, the mutually rival states encouraged outside powers to subdue their Lao rivals. The century closed with Vientiane under Thai rule, although the Vietnamese independently attacked and sacked Luang Prabang in 1791.

In 1805, the Lao Prince Chao Anou became the ruler of Vientiane and won Thai and Vietnamese approval to reintegrate the central and southern provinces. In 1826, however, Cha Anou rebelled against the Siamese interferences and attacked the Thais. These events opened a decade of devastation for the Vientiane state. In 1828, Thai forces sacked Vientiane, razing most of the city and the state became a minor province. Chao Anou was captured by the Thais and died in Bangkok in 1835, bringing an end to his Vietnamese monarchy.

When Lao was a French protectorate in the late 19th and 20th century, Vientiane was named the capital city and has remained so ever since. The provincial population consists of a Lao, Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese and expatriates and the architecture has influences from the French, Lao, Thai, Russian and Chinese.

In the afternoon it stopped raining so that Karen and I went for a bit of a wander. There are some lovely cafes in the city (no doubt due to the French influence). We went to Patuxai (see photo), known as the "Vertical Runway", a monument which was constructed to commemorate Lao people who died in post-revolutionary wars. It was built in 1969 from donated cement from America which was to be used for new airport construction. It is almost the second Arc de Triomphe (with a long avenue a la Champs Elysees leading up to it). You can climb to the top for a great view over Vientiane. Before dinner we stopped off in a wine bar which had a huge variety of French wine - thousands of bottles from top to bottom of the walls and about 50m long (see photo). After dinner we had a drink at an English pub - just like home with Newcastle v Middlesborough on in the background. The menu had a lot of English meals on it - I am dying for some fish and chips or some scampi and chips!

PS I hear that snow has been forecast at home! It is about 20 or so degrees here but we were told that in Hanoi it was 2 degrees last week. Will have to layer up somehow if it is that cold as I don't have any winter clothes.

Overall we had a lovely time in Laos and learnt a few expressions, including Kop Chai Lai Lai, which means thank you. So to all of you who have been keeping up with my travels, Kop Chai Lai Lai!

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