Sunday, December 30, 2007
All quiet on the NZ front
Tuesday, December 25, 2007
Christmas near Christchurch
Monday, December 24, 2007
Hawkes Bay Wine Country
A Few Maori Stories
Wednesday, December 19, 2007
Maori Culture
Monday, December 17, 2007
Auckland
I really like Auckland, from what I have seen of it so far. It is right on the harbour and there is a lot of green country side, parks and great look outs. It really reminds me of being back in the UK, but without the stress and hassle. My cousin Dawn, and her partner Kay, their dog Oscar (see picture) and three cats) live in Pukehoe, which is a market town just about 50 km south of Auckland city. I don't know how they have managed to keep my mum and I out of the shops, but by some miracle, apart from going to the local supermarket, our credit cards have been deprived of seeing the light of day.
On Sunday we did a driving tour around Auckland. First stop was One Tree Hill (see picture). One Tree Hill (or Maungakiekie in Maori) is a 182 metre volcanic peak located and is an important memorial place for both Maori and other New Zealanders. The suburb around the base of the hill is also called One Tree Hill. The hill's scoria cones erupted 20,000 - 30,000 years ago, creating lava flows which covered an area of 20 square kilometres, mostly towards Onehunga, making it the largest (in terms of area covered) of the Auckland area. The summit provides views across the Auckland area, and allows visitors to see both of Auckland's Harbours. One Tree Hill has become No Tree Hill - unfortunately, in around 2000, some Maori activist wanted to reclaim the land back in that area and chopped into the 125 year old pine tree on top of the hill with an axe. Because of fears strong winds could topple the tree, the 125-year-old pine tree on top of the hill was chopped down on October 26, 2000. Another native tree is being planted on the site.
We then went to Devonport, which is a posh part of Auckland where the naval base is situated, had a spot of lunch and then drove to Mount Victoria. Mount Victoria is the highest volcano on Auckland's North Shore but rises to a mere 87 m. It erupted some 20,000 years ago, and its lava flows now line much of Devonport's waterfront. Named after Queen Victoria, the hill provides panoramic views of Auckland's Waitemata Harbour and the inner Hauraki Gulf (see picture). Over the years the peak and upper slopes have housed a signal station for shipping, artillery emplacements and various concrete army bunkers, some from as early as the 1870s. One bunker now serves as the venue for the Devonport Folk Club.
After Mount Victoria, it was on to the Fish Market at the Waterfront. I have never seen such variety of fish at a market before (other than the markets in Hong Kong) and at such cheap prices. We bought a hige bag of green lipped New Zealand mussels for about NZ$6.80 (less than 4 pounds) - it would probably cost that much for one mussel back home. We have eaten a lot of fish, prawns and steak since we have been here. In the cafes here they serve chips, pies and scones and I really feel at home!
Today (Monday) it absolutely poured down and I think the bad weather is supposed to last until Wednesday. Fingers crossed that summer finally comes. We drove down to Waitomo Caves, which is about two and a half hours from Auckland. The Waitomo Caves are a village and cave system forming a major tourist attraction in the southern Waikato region of the North Island of New Zealand, 12 kilometres northwest of Te Kuiti. The word Waitomo comes from the Maori, wai meaning water and tomo meaning a doline or sinkhole. It can thus be translated to be water passing through a hole. You can see all the limestone formations and plenty of glow worms, which are in fact fly larvae, which generate some chemical which reacts with their excrement - the result, their bum glows. It is quite impressive as there are thousands of them on the cave ceiling. Unfortunately they would not allow us to take any pictures inside the caves.
For dinner we tried pavlova, which was apparently invented in New Zealand after some Russian ballerina - Anna Pavlova (or if you ask the Aussies, they say that they invented it). It's been years since I have had it, but if was delicious with fluffy egg whites - enough to disguise the thousands of calories which you scoff with every mouthful.
Tomorrow we are off to Rotorua, which is where they have the hot springs and lots of Mauri culture. I am looking forward to seeing the haka. Ka Mate Ka Mate ha ha!
Friday, December 14, 2007
Hunter Valley Winos
I have been quite disappointed with the weather since I arrived in Sydney. It rained for most of Thursday afternoon in Hunter Valley, and apparently all the tourists visiting the wineries were moaning like hell because it was so cold. I feel like I am in a time warp and still suffering from our cold and miserable summer! All the locals are quite glad of the rain, as whilst the weather has not been this bad for a good number of years (in Hunter Valley it is normally over 30 degrees at this time of year), Australia is in the midst of a drought, so a few inches is much needed. Today was much warmer in Sydney, so my legs have now seen the sun again.
The scenery in Hunter Valley is great, although with the crap weather, I did struggle to get a good picture (see above). It was also quite exciting when we were driving back to Sydney just out of Hunter Valley, when a kangeroo bounced in front of our car to cross over the road. Makes a change from seeing squashed headgehogs and the like in the UK.
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
Another Wedding
Sunday, December 9, 2007
How the Chinese do it
Thursday, December 6, 2007
Daintree Delights
I was picked up by the Billy Tea Safari Company at 7.15am by John, who I swear was Rolf Harris' twin brother (with beard, glasses and everthing but the didgeridoo - he is dressed in blue above). Two hours later, we arrived in the Daintree Rainforest in Tropical Northern Queensland. It is a World Heritage Tropical Rainforest, which merges with the Coral Sea.
First stop was a cruise up and down the Daintree River on the lookout for crocodiles in the mangrove swamps. Apparently their optimum body temperature is 28 degrees (or thereabouts) but as the water temp is about that at this time of the year and the water levels are high, it meant all those crocs decided to hide away under the surface. We did spot a baby crocodile but I couldn't see it for the life of me. I kept seeing blobs of mud rather than anything resembling one, I have been told that it is on the photo I took but I may have to blow it up a few times to see if the guide was making it up or not. We also saw a large colony of flying foxes (fruit bats) which made a huge racket.
Wednesday, December 5, 2007
Walking Wounded Returns
Unfortunately I sucuumbed to a diver's worst nightmare - the dreaded cold! At the start of the second dive on day one, it was quite painful equalising and after the constant crackling in my ear for the rest of the day, I decided to take it easy, so that I would be able to do some of the dives in the Coral Sea the next day. This meant missing the cod feed at the Cod Hole (ie with huge potato cod). I was, however, not able to dive for the next two days, as my ears were completely blocked. I slept for the whole of day two, feeling completely worn out, and it was the first time I was able to relax since leaving England last Saturday. Mind you, reading American Psycho is not exactly the way to relax on holiday! On the third day, I managed to snorkel a couple of times and saw a reef shark and a turtle (exciting by divers' standards) and probably saw more than than I did on the first two dives. Snorkeling does make you feel vulnerable though, as you end up flapping around on the surface - easy enough for some shark to mistake you for a seal and lunch. Another drawback of snorkeling without a wetsuit is that the water is full of small stingers, which meant that I was covered in little red stings all over my body. Very attractive! Good job for the antihistamines - my first aid kit has been a life saver.
I managed to get in the last two dives today, which should have been quite chilled out. On the first dive this morning (at 6.30am!!!) my buddy Kelly and I came across a Titan Trigger Fish. They are known for being quite aggressive, attacking people and taking big chunks out of fins with their nastly little teeth which can crush coral into tiny bits. Three years of not diving must have eradicated some of my brain cells, as I decided to get a bit to close filming one on my video camera. All of a sudden, the Titan went for me and luckily I had the protection of my video camera, which it proceeded to headbut. I turned to continue my dive, but felt a little nip on my leg (luckily I was wearing a full wetsuit) and when I turned around the little bugger was coming back a third time. This time, after screaming like a banshee, I gave it a massive karate kick with my fin (Bruce Lee would have been proud!). Don't go calling the RSPCA or feeling sorry for it, as it is the only way to deal with them. Back on the boat I learnt that it is nesting season right now, which means they get very territorial near their eggs and it had tried to attack a few people on our dive.
I am not sure what was going on with the filming on my video camera on the first day. It must have been all the cold tablets, antihistamines and cough mixture I was loaded up with. I could hardly point the camera for more than 2 seconds in one go, so that the whole footage looks like it is taken by someone who is on a load of ecstacy tablets going nuts at an all night rave!
Taka Liveaboard is run like a military operation - ie it is geared more for beginner and intermediate divers who need a bit of guidance but there were quite a lot of experienced divers who felt a bit patronised by being told what to do. Chilled out diving it wasn't, for example, we were made to swim half a mile in three metre swells to get to the reef (almost drowning with my camera trying to hold onto the line) and then after the dive, instead of helping us into the rib, they would tow us back like shark bait. I was not that disappointed that I missed two days' diving, as none of the experienced divers said that the dives were amazing and the visibility was not great - 10 metres in part - but this could have to do with the fact that it is coral spawning season in December. I also think that the weather was quite bad - we had two nights travelling in quite bad swells, with the boat rocked 45 degrees side to side.
As well as bruises on my arms and legs from lugging my luggage and banging myself against the boat, I somehow managed to fall down the steep stairs on the dive boat back to my room and I now have scrapes on my right arm and my ribs and a bruised and bloody elbow. I look like I have been in a war zone!
Still, at least the food was good, my fellow divers were nice and I feel quite relaxed. I have just come back to my hotel after meeting up with the divers for a drink, but after not drinking for four days, I feel like a complete lightweight! My only excuse is that I have a 7am pick up tomorrow for a trip to the rainforest.
I am back at the Hotel Cairns where I was last week, except that I have been upgraded to an executive suite - which means a bigger room and a balcony (the last room you could hardly swing a dead cat in!). I must have done something right last week - ie smile sweetly rather than doing my usual scowl! Anyway, my Aussie Guru tells me that in far north Queensland, wireless internet connection it is not widespread and in fact in many parts of Australia, broadband is not available. I am so pleased that the Hotel Cairns has decided to join the internet revolution!
Friday, November 30, 2007
Diving Dummy
I had lunch at a burger and grill place earlier and in the toilet they had a novelty toilet seat with a couple of redback spiders. Ok, so I know that it wasn't real, but I couldn't bring myself to park my bottom there. Whilst on the dunny (that's Australian for loo, isn't it?), I suddenly jumped up to check there were no spiders lurking under the toilet. I had forgotten about them - must be more careful in future, as I can't afford to be bitten on the bum this early on in the trip. Mind you, Julie did my tarot cards before I left home and saw no period of hospitalisation over the next few months, so fingers crossed she is right!
I have been informed by the Aussie guru (Anne) that a bug is a Moreton Bay Bug, which is a type of lobster and apparently very delicious. I may try it next week provided my seafood allergy has gone.
Cairns is growing on me a bit and I feel much better than yesterday, even though I woke up today with my head full of cold and a blocked nose, which was not a good sign. I've been to the pharmacist to get cough mixture, cold tablets, echinaea and vitamin c to dose up today before diving tomorrow. I am in a bit of a drug induced haze at the moment. To cheer myself up because I can't shake off this horrible bug, I did a spot of shopping and bought some clothes to replace what feels like my rather depleted wardrobe. That will add another 2 kilos to the excess baggage charges!!
I am now sitting by the pool at the hotel to wait for my pick up for the liveaboard. The Hotel Cairns is nice and laid back, although when I ask some of the staff things, they look at me as if I am from Planet Zod. Also, isn't technology great, being able to type this on my laptop using the hotel's wireless internet connection. Another not so great reason for being a technology junkie is that I have a plastic bag full of various chargers and leads for my computer, IPOD, two cameras, dive battery etc etc. You name it, I have it. I also keep thinking I have left various things in the hotel room which I have forgotton to pick up, but they must be in the depths of all my stuff somewhere.
I also remember reading that the TAKA liveaboard has wireless internet access onboard but I daren't ask in case I come across as a bit of an idiot. Anyway, if you don't hear from me for a few days, it is because I am stuck out at sea.
Tarah for now.
xx
Thursday, November 29, 2007
Hello from Cairns!
The guy sitting next to me was returning from Iran (where he works) to Melbourne for Xmas and New Year. He helped me to fill in the customs declaration form. Ok, not that it was difficult or anything, but some of the questions were ambigious. You need to declare food (fresh, dried or preserved) but is chocolate a food? Anne (who is from Melbourne) told me to declare everything if in doubt and I guess it was also the lawyer in me reading too much into the questions. If there was a box for carrying deadly bactewria, I would have ticket that, as with all the long flights, my smelly dirty washing could have walked off the plane itself and contaminated the clean air for miles! Three flights in less than a week - I dread to think what my carbon footprint is so far.
Everyone at Melbourne airport was really friendly - it only took me 30 minutes to go through immigration, collect my bags and get checked at customs. Ok, so it was 2am in the morning, but you also don't get the aggressive "Why are you coming to America" spiel as you do in the States. I don't really get that attitude, especially as people would rather live in Australia (sorry for anyone from the US reading this, but it's true!).
I am feeling like a complete zombie and think an early night is in order. I only managed about 1 hours' sleep at the airport hotel. I don't know if it is because I was overtired or overexcited but my body has no idea what time zone it is in - the hours are chopping and changing at the drop of a hat. It didn't help this morning that I got completely stung by excess baggage charges with Virgin Blue. It cost me $100 (about 45 quid) because I was 20 kilos overweight - I was so concerned about the weight of my hand luggage that I put all my heavy things in my check in luggage. It is not a lot in the grand scheme of things, but the most annoying thing is that they have recently changed their charging policy, so that each extra bag was charged at the bargain price of $20 per bag. It is one of the reasons I booked Virgin Blue but then you do pay for what you get!
Cairns reminds me of Blackpool or some other dodgy seaside town back at home. Not sure I really like it and I am also not sure if there is much to do in the evenings apart from go to a bar and get drunk. You would think that the diving mecca of Australia would have dive shops galore stocked with every product a diver could want but not so in this place. I do feel a bit like I am in the back of beyond.
I went into a shop today which sold digeridoos (is that how it is spelt?!!!!). They had some really nice ones and the guy let me have a go. You have to wobble your lips, which is harder than it seems. Needless to say, notwithstanding my rubber, I was completely useless at it. I don't think Vernon would be too impressed if I sent one back for the house though.
I had dinner tonight at an Italian restaurant (see picture above) - the portions were huge, even by my standards. I am officially off seafood (well, temporarily anyway) - I have developed a minor rash on my face, and I think that it is a mild allergy to it (which I have had before). If I am not careful I will turn into a prawn and get eaten by some turtle whilst I am diving! One thing I did notice on the menu was "bugs" (ie, with pasta or potatoes or even seafood) What on earth are these - any ideas, Anne? If they are the critters themselves, then that sounds revolting.
Anyway, I can't seem to shake off this bug and I am concerned that my cold will stop me diving. I have also noticed that one of my bits of equipment is not working, which is great, considering I have and will continue to lug it halfway around the world. I am catching the liveaboard at 5pm to the Coral Sea tomorrow, which I am very excited about (first dive in 18 months!). Hopefully I will have some pictures to show you next time.
Wednesday, November 28, 2007
On my way to Down Under
The only way to wile away the hours when flying is by watching lots of movies and pigging out on all the lovely food. I have been having appetizers with pre-dinner drinks, as well as a three course meal but even I can't manage the cheese trolley. If I am not careful, I will end up a real porker when I come back and you won't recognise me!
I also seem to be accumulating a large number of toiletry goodies courtesy of Emirates (lovely Bulgari). I wonder if my family in Australia know what they will be getting for Christmas!! That is not the only thing I have picked up, though - the dreaded lurgy! I woke up on Monday morning with a raging sore throat and then on Tuesday with a cough, cold and two huge ulcers. I am not surprised, though, as I was frantically trying to pack up at work and pack for my trip and I must have picked something up from someone on the plane. Not very pleasant but I seem to be fighting it off slowly. Fingers crossed that I won't have any problems diving on Saturday.
On Sunday after I arrived, I went to have the obligatory Singapore Sling in The Long Bar at The Raffles Hotel, which was directly opposite my hotel (I was staying in the Raffles Plaza). The drink was great (it should be at 8 quick a pop, which is not much by London standards but a lot her) but I was expecting the bar to be quite posh. It is like some old country style boozer with the floor covered in monkey nuts. I retired to my hotel after only one drink (not bad for me!) - my room was great - huge bed and great views over the city.
My mum's friend Sherlane, who has just moved back to Singapore from Dubai with her English boyfriend Hugh, showed me around Singapore on Monday. I bought myself a laptop (I am currently typing this in the Emirates business class lounge - hooray, civilisation at last!) but I kept out of the shops generally, as I didn't think she wanted to be dragged around them. We walked down the infamous Orchard Road, which is full of shopping malls. I thought Dubai was the king of shopping mall excesses, but nothing beats this. They even demolish old buildings and you guessed it - they build more shopping malls!
I then went to try foot reflexology for the first time, as I had read that it is a must when you come to Singapore. It is like a deep tissue massage on your feet - ie it hurts! The woman doing the massage was nice enough - I think she was from Malaysia. At one point I was grimacing with the pain (no pain no gain), but when the Butcher of Borneo realised she was about to break all the tiny bones in my feet, she eased up, and it started to get very pleasant indeed. So much so, that I fell asleep! Sherlane told me that it is supposed to get rid of all the toxins in your body and also prepared me for what might come out in the couple of days afterwards when you go to the toilet. I had a bit of a dodgy stomach before I had the treatment but afterwards, it had gone. I felt so relaxed, so we decided to go for a few beers in a beer garden. I don't think you are meant to drink alcohol - it kind of defeats the whole purpose of flushing all those nasty things out of your body. Nothing seems to have happened on the toilet front though.
My mum had warned me that Sherlane and Hugh could drink loads. How much more than what I and my friends are used to, can that be? She must be exaggerating. Needless to say, I was playing catch up, and that is saying something. Five beers and half a bottle of wine later, I managed to stumble back to the hotel. Not sure if it was the tiredness or whether I was truly drunk.
On Tuesday we went to Singapore Zoo. I can definitely see why it has been voted number 1/2 in the world for the best zoos (with San Diego Zoo). Every animal you can conceivably imagine is there and some of the exhibits are open, so that you can walk with the animals. We saw an elephant show, which was very good indeed. Those beats are so clever and can understand the Sri Lankan language! I paid $5 for the privilege of having my photo taken with those parrots (see above).
After that we went for the obligatory chilli crab, at a hawkers' market in the Newton area. As usual, we over ordered but the chilli crab and chilli squid was divine (Julie - you would be in food heaven!). I tried chilli stingray for the first time ever, but I must admit that I wasn't really taken with it. It had an acquired taste and I felt guilty eating something which I have dived with and am shortly to be diving with.
I had a bit of a lie in this morning to shake off this cold and true to style, managed to fit in a bit of last minute shopping. My bags are already quite full and I am worried when I fly from Melbourne to Cairns on Virgin Blue that I will have too much hand luggage. It weighed 11 kilos when I weighed it at Heathrow! I might have to smile sweetly or bribe someone.
Anyway, I am trying to finish this before I get on the plane to Melbourne. I really liked Singapore. It is so civilised, everyone is so friendly and the food is great. It is so cheap. They have loads of food courts and rather than the usual KFC or McDonalds garbage, they have a large selection of rice and noodles from Singapore, Malasia, Korea and Hong Kong. All at a snip at $3.80 (which is just over 1 pound (this computer does not have a pound sign on it!!!). Plus you can walk around here at night safe in the knowledge that you aren't going to get pestered by some weirdo in an anorak!
Getting to the airport was also a pleasant experience. I asked Emirates to pick me up earlier so that I could claim the tax back for my shopping and also do some duty free shopping. You get dropped off at the door, only to be met by Emirates (for business and first class customers only I think) and they take your luggage for you to the check in desk. 10 minutes later you are through customs. The airport is clean and reasonably quiet (Heathrow take note!). I was the first person in the business class lounge and they have a massage machine. I spent 45 minutes on it having a full body massage. Luxury!
Anyway, I am looking forward to going to Australia, so see you Down Under!!
Sunday, November 25, 2007
Chaos in Dubai
Organised chaos is what greeted me at 7.30am this morning at Dubai airport but onwards and upwards to Singapore.
I like this blogging lark!
Packed up and off in style!
I eventually packed up my boxes at work yesterday. It wasn't until I left the office when I felt quite sad and it dawned on me that I am leaving London. I am looking forward to my new life up North with Vernon and let's hope that Manchester lives up to its reputation. First and foremost, though I have a great trip coming up and I am starting to fill really excited. For those of you who haven't yet been bored to death of my itinerary, I'm now off to Singapore (via Dubai), where the shops await!
I am signing off now before the screen starts to get blurred - that champagne is really good...and I haven't even boarded the plane yet!